1.) Natural Dyes R&D and the Revival of Indigenous Philippine Textiles
5.) Dyeing and Fastness Properties of Textiles Dyed with C. blumei (Mayana) Leaf Extract
6.) The PTRI Outlook on the Development of Philippine Natural Fabrics from Natural Souces
Natural Dyes R&D and the Revival of Indigenous Philippine Textiles
Estrella F. Alabastro
To all distinguished participants and organizers of the 2nd AHPADA International Arts and Crafts Expo. I would like to thank you for this opportunity to share the relevance of science and technology in indigenous textiles through research and development particulary on natural dyes.
When the sun shines on droplets of water in the atmosphere, the spectrum of light is resolved from the beam of the incident radiation and an optical meteorological phenomenon appears in the sky-- the rainbow. To scientists, a rainbow is simply light split in individual wavelength that correspond to the colors we see. In the context of Philippine society, however, the rainbow is a depiction of our culture and heritage.
Rainbow or bahaghari in Filipino is the term we use to denote the various breakthroughs and accomplishments of the natural dyes research and development program of the Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI) of the Department of Science and Technology, (DOST).
DOST is mandated to provide central direction and coordination of all science and technology-based activities in the Philippines. The Philippine Textile Research Institute or PTRI, a line agency of DOST, promotes the use of indigenous resources as well as supports the development of technical competence in our local textile and allied industries.
Dyeing Handwoven Pineapple-silk (Ananas comosus-Bombyx mori) and Abaca (Musa textilis) Fabrics with Aqueous Extracts of Young Coconut Husks (Cocos nucifera)
Julius L. Leaño, Jr.
Abstract
The textile dye potential of young coconut (Cocos nucifera) husks was investigated and was found to impact reddish brown and light pinkish brown shades on pina-seda (Ananas comosus-Bombyx mori) and abaca (Musa textilis) fabrics. The crude aqueous extract is reddish brown in color with varied shades obtained on the two materials by simlpy varying the choice of mordant. Darker shades were obtained from copper sulfate mordanted materials while lighter shades were obtained from the alum-mordanted samples. Although pH is not critical in modifying the color of the extract and the shades it produces, addition of acid was found to be detrimental to the colorfastness to laundering (CFL) color change ratings. Better CFL (color change) results were generally obtained from less concentrated dye extract but staining ratings were all very satisfactory. Ferrous sulfate succeeded in deepening the shade of the extracts but it led to a dramatic decline in color change although superior CF to rubbing were noted from the dried samples but low with wet samples.
Key words: pineapple-silk (Ananas comosus-Bombyx mori) fabrics, abaca (Musa textilis) fabric, young coconut husk.
Effect of Type of Washing Machine and Temperature on the Dimensional Change of Woven Cotton Fabrics
Rocelia A. Rafols and Rowena Caridad C. Jurado
Abstract
Pure cotton woven fabrics were subjected to one cycle of washing using top loading and front loading type washing machines at temperatures 30 degree celcius and 40 degree celcius. Since the two types of washing machine have different operation principles, the detergent, water, load and drying temperature were kept costant for all specimensto investigate the effect of the type of washing machine and temperature on the dimensional change of fabrics.
The t-test was used for the four sets of comparisons and it was found that the type of washing machine and temperature have no effect on the dimensional change of heavy weight plain woven pure cotton fabric while the light weight fabric is affected by the type of washing machine and not by the change in temperature. The dimensional change of medium weight fabrics is affected by the use of different types of washing machines and temperatures.
Rocelia A. Rafols and Ma. Yehsa G. Mallari
Abstract
Polyester fiber is one of the most common raw materials used in the textile industry. Breaking tenacity and elongation are the important properties of fibers which have direct effect on yarn strength and elongation. These properties of man-made fibers like polyester, can be determined through the single fiber method using different equipment and different gauge lengths. In this study, the Instron Universal Testing Machine 5566 was used. Specimens for the samples were prepared and tested using 25 mm and 10 mm gauge lengths. It was found that the breaking tenacity has a strong evidence of positive correlation while the elongation has no relationship at all between the two gauge lengths. In cases of disputes arising from differences in reported breaking tenacity test results when the two gauge lengths were used, this study can be helpful in the resolution.
Dyeing and Fastness Properties of Textiles Dyed with C. blumei (Mayana) Leaf Extract
Jenice P. Malabanan
Abstract
The dye extracted from C. blumei (mayana) is a potential source of natural colorant for textiles. The dye was extracted through aqueous extraction process by boiling the unsteeped C. blumei leaves for 30 minutes to achieve optimum dye release. The collected dye extracts gave yellow green to green shades when applied to cotton, abaca, pineapple-silk fabrics and silk yarns. Mordanting with CuSO4 revealed better affinity of the dye on cotton, silk and abaca while alum mordant is better for pineapple-silk fabrics. This new method of obtaining green shade from one dye source significantly showecd better colorfastness to laundering and colorfastness to light ratings compared with the old method which utilizes indigo and yellow ginger dye sources. These colorfastness properties then signified that the C. blumei leaf extract has high potential as a dye source and further, the new method of employing it is more suitable for textile dyeing.
The PTRI Outlook on the Development of Philippine Natural Fabrics from Natural Souces
Carlos C. Tomboc and Nora B. Mangalindahn
Introduction
Clothing is one of three basic needs of man, second only to food and followed by shelter. The awareness of clothing goes back to a time when our precious earth was still very young, with only our so called "forefathers" lording it over all forms of animals. It is mentioned in Genesis, of the Old Testament that when Adam and Eve became aware of their nakednessm they looked for something to cover themselves. The leaves used became the first clothing materials
