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The neo-ethnic Philippine Textile Conference held 11th of June 2013 served as a grand event to gather the stakeholders and advocates of our local textiles. The event provided a platform to update on-going and continuing initiatives in S&T and innovation for this industry, link the players, exchange thoughts and expectations with the hope of coming up with common understanding on contemporary issues that confront the ethnicity, authenticity, sustainability and longevity of textile production in the community level and the country’s ethnic communities. The conference also offered an impressive line-up of speakers from expert researchers of the Research and Development Division of PTRI Ms. Nora Mangalindan and Mr. Juius Leaño, Dr. Norma Respicio of the University of the Philippines Diliman, Ms. Celia Elumba of the Institute of Integrality, and Atty. Leny B. Raz Director of the Bureau of Trademarks. Capping off the event was a fashion show marking the official launch of the neo-ethnic inspired outfits.

In her keynote address, Dr. Rowena Cristina L. Guevara, Executive Director of the Philippine Council for Industry, Energy, and Emerging Technology Research and Development (PCIEERD), remarked that neo-ethnic textiles evokes a “sense of nationalism and pride, glimpses of rich socio cultural heritage, and sustaining our ethnic communities’ livelihood and opportunities for better life.” Dr. Guevara further called for stronger partnerships and collaborations in pursuing common goals for“smarter Philippine textiles”through S&T innovation.

neoethnicweaving Neo-ethnic textiles refers to “natural and/or indigenous materials, sourced and/or produced in the Philippines using updated, relevant and green scientific and technological approaches and innovations by spinners, dyers, weavers and artisans” explained Julius Leaño, project leader of the neo-ethnic project funded by the DOST-TECHNICOM.

The project, led by the Philippine Textile Research Institute of the Department of Science and Technology (PTRI-DOST), gave birth to the neo-ethnic textiles thru the scientific and technological solutions using PTRI’s eco-friendly dyeing technologies which further improved the quality, aesthetics, performance and utilization of ethnic textiles. During his talk on the Neo-ethnicism of the Philippine textiles, Mr. Leaño attested that neo-ethnic textiles have evolved from being a simple context, into a paradigm, philosophy, and an advocacy.

neoethnicdyeing The PTRI closely worked with various weaving communities and the ethnic groups nationwide to verify and validate the reproducibility of their developed technologies.

PTRI coined the term “neo-ethnic” to refer to the fusion of modern technologies in the creation of the indigenous textiles. Though recent technologies were used, PTRI assured that these textiles remain true to the country’s culture and traditions without altering the traditional patterns and designs. The project explored the use of indigenous fibers to replace synthetic fibers as well as natural and low-impact dyes and dyeing techniques to ensure easy reproducibility and safe handling. Recipients of the assistance and S&T interventions include the ethnic designs of the inabel of Paoay; tiniri of Abra; hinabol of Impasug-ong, Bukidnon; t’nalak of Lake Sebu, South Cotabato; hablon of Oton, Iloilo; and inaul from Maguindanao which are distinctively produced by certain tribes and weaving communities throughout the country.

These interventions introduced by PTRI to the weaving communities have already positively influenced the lives of the communities who have used them. Myla Carcasona from the Kalandang Weavers group attested that through the use of the PTRI natural dyeing technology they were able to sell their fabrics from Php30/meter to Php150/meter.

With the increasing clamor for “green” products and even traditional materials, the neo-ethnic textiles shows promise in creating a niche market to benefit our local textile industry. After proving the effectiveness and reproducibility of the technologies, the challenge of proper branding and marketing of the neo-ethnic textiles still remains.  (Joy Camille A. Baldo, S&T Media)