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Extraction and Dye Application of Crude and Powdered Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) from IIijan, Bago City, Negros Occidental : An R&D and Technology Transfer Experience

Authors: Julius L. Leano Jr , Jeannie Lynn J. Cabansag and Rudy C. Fenoy

Abstract

Through a memorandum of agreement between the Philippine Textile Research Institute and the Non-Timber Forest Products - Task Force (NTFP-TF), a seminar-workshop on the production of indigo cake and the application of crude indigo extract on abaca and pina fabrics was conducted on 25-26 August 2009. Members of the IIijan Sustainable Farmers Association of Brgy. IIijan, Bago City, Negros Occidental benefited from the training. The participants expressed their appreciation on natural dyeing and its economic impact on their livelihood. The indigo plant abundant in the place was also evaluated. Promising results were obtained as regards color quality using spectrophotometer and colorfastness performance using AATCC Method 15-2007 (colorfastness to perspiration) and AATCC Method 61-2007 (colorfastness to laundering).

 

Handloom Designs and Weaving Techniques in the Philippines

Author: Jovita A. Hayin

Abstract

Handloom weaving is one the leading handicraft industries in the Philippines. Different regions and ethnic groups use their own kind of loom, raw materials, fabric design, and weaving techniques, which are carefully considered in selecting the appropriate loom. This paper presents the different loom designs used by the handloom industry in the country, their advantages and disadvantages, unique characteristics, and limitations. These considerations could be a basis for future improvement and other innovations toward the context and dynamic evolution of the looms, in particulars, and handloom weaving in the country, in general.

Wash Fastness of Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Annatto (Bixa orellana)  Powder and Treated with Dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU)

Authors: Ryan C. Yutoc , Elbert C. Carillo , Ma. Christine A. Divinagracia , Julius L. Leano Jr and  Lorna T. Enerva

Abstract

Greige woven cotton fabrics were scoured, bleached, mordanted and dyed with annatto (Bixa orellana) dye powder at different conditions of dyeing temperature, liquor ratio, and concentrations. The dyed cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent, dimenthyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU), to evaluate the effect of the crosslinker on the color and colorfastness performance of annatto-dyed cotton fabrics. The results revealed the enhanced colorfastness to laundering performance of cotton fabrics dyed with annatto powder under different dyeing conditions subsequently treated with DMDHEU. The crosslinked fabrics' resistance to fading when exposed to direct sunlight gave improved fastness properties compared with the untreated annatto-dyed cotton.
 
 

Comparative Colorimetric and Colorfastness Evaluation of Textiles Dyed with Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) Powder Produced from Aurora, Aklan, and Negros Occidental, Philippines

Authors: Jeannie Lynn J. Cabansag , Rudy C. Fenoy and  Julius L. Leano Jr.

Abstract

Indigo dye extracted from indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) plants grown in Aurora, Aklan and Negros Occidental were applied to abaca (Musa textilis), cotton (Gossypium hirsutum), pineapple (Ananas comosus), and pineapple-silk (A. comosus-Bombyx mori) fabrics and silk yarns. The dyed fabrics and yarns were analyzed colorimetrically to compare the color difference in terms of lightness and color saturation of adsorbed dye. Color strength of adsorbed indigo dye in terms of Kubelka-Munk's K/S values was derived from the reflectance value of 650 nm, the wavelength of maximum absorption of indigo, and compared with the indigo found in the said localities. Colorfastness (CF) to laundering and perspiration were determined and expressed as color change and staining on different standard fibers.

Colorimethic data of dyed textile materials showed prominent darkness and greatest blue saturation for Aurora indigo, while comparative lightness and blue saturation almost nearing bluish-green coordinates were observed for indigo from Aklan and Negros Occidental. Dyed textiles from the three localities have similar features of the spectral  reflectance curves but textile materials dyed with indigo from Aurora exhibited the highest (K/S) intensity of adsorbed dye. Textiles dyed with indigo from Aklan and Negros Occidental showed satisfactory CF to laundering and perpiration, with minimal changes in color and staining, while Aurora indigo-dyed textiles showed most prominent fading and staining.

 

Processing Performance of Four Silkworm Hybrids Based on Cocoon Quality, Reelability, and Yarn Properties

Author: Roberto O. Casero 

Abstract

Cocoon quality and yarn properties of four Mindanao silkworm hybrids-SW 101, SW 102, SW 103, and SW 104-were studied to determine their processing performance for silk yarn production. Cocoon quality based on weight, size, and length of filament; processing performance in terms of reelability; and properties of the raw silk yarns such as tenacity, elongation, cohesion, neatness, evenness, and cleanness were evaluated.

Results showed that SW 101 gave the longest and heaviest cocoon filament, highest percent reelability, and highest mean cohesion. Highest tenacity, neatness, and evenness percentage were observed in SW 103. SW 102 gave the highest cleanness percentage, highest elongation, and finest cocoon filament. The overall assessment of silkworm hybrids SW 101, SW 102, and SW 103 can verify their commerciallization in terms of processing performance and raw silk quality.

 

Dyeability, Color, and Performance of Naturally Dyed Jute (Corchorus olitorius) Fabrics

Author: Argentina T. Carino

Abstract

The increasing demand for jute-based products prompted the study on its byeability and colorfastness (CF) properties when using natural dyes. Ten dye sources were used in this study: annatto (Bixa orellana), guava (Psidium guajava), young coconut (Cocos nucifera), duhat (Syzygium cumini), indigo (Indigofera tinctoria), cogon (Imperata cylindrica), mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), mayana (Coleus blumei), talisay (Terminalia catappa), and yellow ginger (Curcuma longga). Various mordanting conditions were considered to determine their effect on color and dye affinity for jute fabrics. Generally, low ratings were obtained for the CF to laundering test while CF to rubbing test showed acceptable ratings except for annatto and talisay. Reflectance measurements also revealed the effectiveness of CuSO4 over alum as mordant. The established PTRI technologies on dye extraction and applicable were found suitable for jute dyeing indicating the potential of natural dyes for the dyeing of jute fabric. Moreover, this study supports the latest innovations using jute as a substitute to existing natural and synthetic fibers for natural dyeing.

 
 
 
 

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